Brigid Nastasia of Boston’s CONTRA reports from #NYFW.
Rodarte, while sticking to their dreamy, folk-influenced guns and impeccable craftsmanship, are still full of surprises, at least if Spring ’12 is any indication. While the label’s offerings in ’09 and ’10 were vampier and more (pardon me) fucked up, the last several seasons have seen a quieter, more pastoral focus. Even still, this collection had me wondering if the Mulleavy sisters are courting an entirely different client base entirely than they did at the inception of their line.
Florals abounded, from warm, golden sunflowers to muted white blossoms popping against vivid turquoise. The prints here truly were gorgeous, and the rich tones were a nice departure for spring. Rodarte’s clothes are always steeped in nature, albeit on a few psychedelics. The contrast of structured and ultra-feminine was present throughout the presentation, although in lieu of being integrated, each look seemed to bounce between one quality or the other. I was slightly disturbed by the appearance of two striped silk dresses (one turquoise, one purpose) which, dare I say, felt a little bit HILTON next to the smoky eye makeup, but perhaps my large-looming expectations for this label are causing me to judge too harshly.
One thing I do know is that Joseph Morrissey of Riccardi was present at the show, and his choices are always 100% on point. Riccardi has been stocking a perfectly curated Rodarte inventory since earlier this year. I know we agree on at least some of this season’s offerings, as he tweeted a pic of the stunning appliquéd gown shown above right. So Joey, after you are done slapping me for the Hilton reference, I look forward to your thoughts…